Clouds wobble and mountain peaks quiver as I glide silently along the fjord, my paddle slicing through their reflections with butter-soft ease. With every stroke I slip further into a sleepy rhythm, ...

They used to call it “a very large Hell.” Back when nickel was found in these hills and the mining outfit moved in and built a blast furnace and hydroelectric dam, boated in the help, changed the ...

The thin skin of ice sounds like chandeliers tinkling as we slide through it, heads tucked down in the howling wind. We’re on the rim of a peak called Keipen, one of the tallest mountains on Senja, an ...